Chitkul - Backpacking trip to the Last Village of India

One thing I recently checked off my travel list is traveling to Chitkul (also known as The Last Village of India). I had this whole idea built up in my head since last 1 year. I finally got to put it into action and I'm so glad that I did it! Before getting into the details, if you're doubtful about going to Chitkul or are on the fence of making that decision, take my word for it and PLEASEE do plan your trip, it's going to be so worth it. With that out of the way let's get into the details.

This blog should help you get a detailed itinerary from a Backpacker's perspective but most of the details I share here will be helpful to all kinds of travelers.

What is Chitkul famous for?

Chitkul is called The Last Village of India as it's the last motorable village before the Indo Tibetan border. That in itself is a surreal experience to know that your at a place this far. If that's not enough, Chitkul is situated at a height of 11,320 ft (3,450m) which makes for it's cold weather all year round. So if you love the cold and snow and mountains and trees and rivers, Chitkul has it all in one small non commercial offbeat village which makes it a perfect destination to relax and escape the rest of the world for a little while.

What is the best time to visit Chitkul?

As previously mentioned, Chitkul remains cold all year round, that mean it's a perfect summer getaway to escape from scorching heat of the cities unfortunately it does also mean that Chitkul is not the place to be in the peak winter season.

Chitkul in Winters (November to March)

During these months the whole village is engulfed in Snow and the roads are blocked for the majority of these months so it's not advisable to visit Chitkul during this time of the year. The temperatures can dip to as low as -21°C during January. Throughout this time, even if the roads are open they are not going to be in good conditions and might also get blocked at any moment leaving you stranded so it's better to avoid travelling post November up untill mid March. You'll also see most locals leaving the village to live on lower altitudes for the winter during the Months of December to February.

Chitkul in Summer (April to June)

This is ideally the best time to visit. The snow starts to melt as the Spring arrives and the roads start opening up. During the initial months of Spring, you'll still find snow around and the weather remains very cold. April to mid-May, you'll be able to witness sub 0°C temperatures, it's only towards the end of May when the minimum temperature rises above 0°C.

These months make for the perfect vacation when you want to escape to a winter wonderland during the peak summer months in India.

Chitkul in Monsoon (July to August)

It's not advisable to travel to the mountains during the monsoon season, let alone be Chitkul. This holds specially true for Chitkul and the Rest of the Kinnaur valley as landslides are a common occurrence due to heavy rainfall which can alter your plans and can also prove to be fatal. Even if you do manage to get to your destination safely, there won't be much you can do when there is heavy downpour outside. Hence, it's best to avoid travelling in these months.

Chitkul in Autumn (September to October)

September is fairly pleasant for Chitkul in a way that you have post monsoon greenery and the temperature will start to dip again, perfect for the people who want to experience those very cold temperatures almost touching 0°C. Also, you will find it less crowded as it's not the peak season anymore and with October the autumn will be in full swing so you'll be able to catch a glimpse of the yellow brown leaves and you can also get a chance to witness snowfall in the whole Baspa valley during this time of the year. Although be careful towards the end of October as the snow can again start causing roadblocks.

How to get to Chitkul?

There are multiple ways for you to reach Chitkul. There is no direct train or flight connectivity to Chitkul you can only reach there by road.

Travelling by Train/Flight

If you're planning to cover some distance via Train or Flight you can reach Shimla from where you have to continue your journey by road. You can find the route details below.

Travelling by Road (Bus/Cab)

You can either take a cab or a bus if you're not travelling by your own vehicle. I'll explain the Bus route in detail here because you can take a cab at any point of this bus journey.

There are no direct buses to Chitkul, the connecting bus routes are as follows:

(Budget Friendly) Route 1: Delhi - Sangla - Chitkul

There is one Direct HRTC Ordinary bus running from Delhi to Sangla which will cost you around ₹1100/- (You'll be able to find the bus details on HTRC website - https://online.hrtchp.com/). The only caveat with this bus is that it's an ordinary bus and the journey is fairly long so it won't be as comfortable travelling overnight in a non ac non volvo bus, but hey if you're in for an adventure and want to save a few bucks, this is your best bet. Then from Sangla you can either take another bus to Chitkul which will cost you around ₹60 and take about 1.5 to 2 hours to reach Chitkul or you can also take a taxi to Chitkul if you miss the bus. Here's the HRTC Bus timings Chart at Sangla Bus stop but there is also a private bus that runs on the route which should ideally coincide with your arrival time at Sangla.

However, I would recommend you stay in Sangla overnight and explore the town a little bit while you are at it and get some rest because you've already been travelling for a long time and the road to Chitkul is a bit rough.

(Recommended) Route 2: Delhi/Chandigarh - Shimla - Sangla - Chitkul

If you're looking for a little bit of comfort and want to save a few bucks as well then this is the route for you. You can either Start from Delhi or Chandigarh and Reach Shimla overnight via any Volvo bus service, just make sure to reach Shimla by 7AM.

From Shimla ISBT, you can catch the bus going to Sangla. This is going to be the same Ordinary HRTC bus that Starts from Delhi. You'll be able to find the bus inside the ISBT on the top floor. It leaves from Shimla at 7:15AM so make sure you plan your time accordingly. If in-case you miss the bus your next best bet is to find a bus to Recong Peo and from there you can also reach Chitkul (You can ask the Shimla ISBT staff and they will be able to guide you through it).

From here on the rest of the route remains the same as mentioned above, from Sangla you can either take a local bus or a taxi to Chitkul.

(Most Comfortable) Route 3: Delhi/Chandigarh - Shimla - Chitkul

This route is for the ones who are looking for a little bit of comfort and are okay with spending a little bit of money.

You can start from Delhi or Chandigarh to Shimla overnight via a Volvo bus. There are a lot of busses running on this route so you'll not have a problem with that no matter what time you're looking for.

From Shimla you can hire a Taxi Cab directly to Chitkul, which will be a long journey for sure but you can take your sweet stops in between since you have the liberty of a taxi, regardless of which you will comfortably reach Chitkul by evening.

How to come back from Chitkul?

Similar to reaching Chitkul you can follow the same routes back to your home town. There are 3 Major routes by road from Chitkul to Delhi/Chandigarh.

(Budget Friendly) Route 1: Chitkul - Karcham - Rampur/Shimla - Delhi/Chandigarh

If you're looking for a little bit of comfort and want to save a few bucks as well then this is the route for you. Start From Chitkul at 6:30 AM. This is the earliest bus that you can find right in front of "The Last Dhaba". Take a ticket to Karcham Dam from where you can find busses for Shimla or Rampur.

Once you deboard at Karcham, wait for a bus to Rampur if you're lucky (Like Me :P) then you can find a direct bus to Shimla as well from Karcham (regardless of the bus you get, both busses will take a halt at Rampur so your travel time would be same in both cases).

Following this route, you will reach Shimla by evening and can comfortably travel overnight in a Volvo Semi Sleeper back to Delhi/Chandigarh.

(Budget Friendly) Route 2: Chitkul - Sangla - Delhi

While this route may be budget friendly you will have to prepare in advance for this. You will have to hitchhike a ride to Sangla from Chitkul or get a taxi. The goal is to reach Sangla before 7:00 AM. There is a bus that goes directly from Sangla to Delhi.

Now a few things to keep in mind here are that, I would request you to check the availability of the Sangla to Delhi bus in advance just to be double sure. Also, arrange for your travel from Chitkul to Sangla in advance since you'll have to leave pretty early, or maybe come back to Sangla to stay for the night.

(Most Comfortable) Route 3: Chitkul - Shimla - Delhi/Chandigarh

This route is for the ones who are looking for a little bit of comfort and are okay with spending a little bit of money.

Take a taxi from Chitkul to Shimla, I would recommend you start early in the morning so that you reach Shimla by evening, the journey is going to be long and you'll definitely face a lot of traffic when you're about to enter Shimla in the evening.

From Shimla you can then take an overnight Volvo bus back to Delhi/Chandigarh.

Where to Stay in Sangla?

If you plan to make a halt at Sangla you might be wondering, what are some options if you want to stay overnight. While there are a decent amount of hotels and homestays in Sangla, I stayed at Zostel, Sangla begin a solo traveler.

I have nothing but good to say about the Zostel in Sangla. The whole property is well maintained, they have really nice patio and common areas where you can eat and connect with people. Talking about food, the food here was amazing, I had two meals and had nothing to complain about. The rooms and washrooms were hygienic and well maintained and they also have a rooftop if you want to sit around and enjoy the pretty mountain facing views. So overall it's definitely on my recommended list.

NOTE: Try to carry cash if possible since they will charge GST if you're doing UPI Payments for food bill.

Where to Stay in Chitkul?

Even though Chitkul is fairly offbeat there is no shortage of stay options here. You'll find hotels, homestays, hostels and even camping options so you'll be covered for sure. I have 2 recommendations for you based on what kind of stay you're looking for.

Zostel, Chitkul

Just like my experience at Sangla Zostel I had a very positive experience at the Zostel in Chitkul. Reasonably priced, well maintained, clean and hygienic with all the basic amenities nailed. The food was also amazing and honestly they didn't leave much scope for me to complain about. It's safe to say that you will have a good time over here.

My only gripe with the Stay was that the washroom struggled with water pressure so it would sometimes be a challenge to use the toilet, I'd suggest you check the water pressure first and if you could get a room on the lower floors try that, it should help the situation for sure.

NotOnMap - Adobe the Clouds (Raj Guest House)

Now if you're looking to live like a local and something a little more rustic then you should absolutely try Raj Guest House.

If you're planning to book online you can look for the property under the name "NotOnMap - Adobe the Clouds" otherwise the actual property itself is called Raj Guest House if you want to make a booking then and there old school style.

While the food here tasted average, it is prepared fresh and with a warm heart in a small kitchen. Which is quiet frankly how I expect it to be like in the local village. The washrooms are clean and well maintained rather I felt like they were slightly better than the Zostel, functionally speaking.

What to do in Chitkul?

To be honest, Chitkul is a fairly small village don't expect it to house a lot of touristy spots. Most people come to Chitkul for a day visit and leave before the night falls. However, I'd rather recommend that you stay at least one night here if not two and do the following things.

Stargaze

Chitkul has almost perfect conditions for stargazing. The temperatures are low it's on a high altitude and being a small village it has no air or light pollution. On top of this the lights in the village start turning of as it approaches midnight and beyond so the longer you stay out the more rewarded you will feel.

Most people go to Spiti or Ladakh to witness the milkyway. What if I told you that Chitkul is also an amazing spot to admire the milkyway core, provided you plan ahead and go at the right time of the year.

Take a Break

I'd say Chitkul is the best off beat place to just relax and get yourself that social city life detox. You can easily spend hours sitting by the river looking at the mountains eating some nice food or sipping on some tea along with your friends or family and just take a minute to appreciate the beauty of mountains.

Riverside Camping

I can't tell you how much I want to go back to Chitkul just to camp by the riverside because I missed it this time. Chitkul is Situated on the banks of Baspa river and you can find lots of options to camp overnight near the river, If you want to one up the adventure you can also take your own camping gear as there are a few good spots where you can prop up your own tents and spend the night.

Lunch at "The Aakhri Dhaba"

The Aakhri Dhaba (The Last Dhaba) is named after the fact that Chitkul is the Last Village of India. While the food is typical Dhaba style food. The owners are very sweet and its so reasonable that I had my lunch here for both my days of stay. So if you're travelling on a budget then this place must definitely be on your list.

Apart from the reasonably priced food and the splendid views of the valley this Dhaba is also famous for it has been visited by a lot of celebrities. So I mean you can kinda feel a little special? Maybe?

Mathi Temple

If you are feeling religious you can visit the Local Temple in Chitkul. Mathi is the goddess for the local people here. It is said that the village started prospering and growing in abundance with food and grass to graze for the cattle after her arrival in the village. This temple was said to be built 5 centuries ago which is made up of walnut wood. The wood carvings and handicraft done here is truly a work of art.

Buddhist Temple

While on the topic of temples, there is another less famous temple here. It has beautiful colors and murals like those of Buddhist monasteries but unfortunately only locals are allowed inside. Tourists can only hangout in the compound and get photos if they wish.

Trekking

While I was there I was informed that you can do a few treks from Chitkul which I am not very well aware of and to be honest didn't bother enquiring since I was solo and it would not have been a wise decision to go on a trek you know nothing about all by yourself. However if you're travelling in a group I'd say trekking is something you can definity look forward to. You'll just need to research and plan ahead, that's it.

Apple Orchids of Batseri

If you're travelling in the right months you can visit the Apple Orchids in Batseri village which is close to Chitkul. The feeling of plucking an apple directly from the tree and eating it is just something else, an experience that you'll never encounter in the city.

Nearby Villages of Rakcham and Sangla

Sangla is the biggest village in the Baspa valley and makes for the most commercialized village out of the bunch which means that you can find local shops and forts to explore and shop around a little.

On the contrary Rakchham is very quaint and peaceful where you can experience some really mesmerizing views of the Baspa valley and the greenery or snow capped mountains around. This village definitely has some great photo spots for you to explore.

Closing Thoughts

There is absolutely nothing bad that I have to say about Chitkul. Chitkul is a real gem. I really want to visit this village again now that I have truly witnessed its beauty and peace. It's a very offbeat destination thanks to it's location being far from the major cities of Himachal. I really hope it maintains it's local Himachali village charm over the years to come and if you're visiting this marvel I would request you to respect the village, the locals and their traditions to help maintain the vibe that you go here for in the first place.